Damavand’s north east route is the longest but the most beautiful track to climb Damavand. It’s also the one that requires some mountaineering experience. It can get extremely cold on the way up due to the wind direction. You’ll find a shelter at 4,400 meters called Takht e Fereydoun.
This track is much longer than the other routes. It starts from Haji Dela village in the north of the peak and after crossing the plain, it reaches the refuge of Takht-e Fereydoun, then it merges with Aruska glacier and finally with the northern ridge and leads to the summit. Also, the return from the northeast route is done due to the presence of large ski sand from Gazaneh village and Estelle area.
If you are planning to climb the legendary roof of Iran, you can try the northeastern face and stay at the beautiful village of Nandal.
Climbing Damavand Peak is a special ascent from different points of view and the feeling of stepping on the summit is a combination of pleasant and successful feelings that a climber gets by finishing the ascent and being at that height.
To ascend the northeastern face of Damavand, there are two famous tracks, one of which is the village of Gazaneh and the other is the village of Nandal, which merges from Takht-e Fereydoun shelter onwards.
Damavand north-east face route: Reach Nandal village (2350 m) through Haraz road. Next morning we drive From Nandal with 4×4 vehicles, to Gardaneh Sar (2900 m) 15 km, about 1 hour. In Gardaneh Sar, if you wish, you give your backpacks to the livestock and move lightly towards Takht-e Fereydoun (4370 m). The track is usually beaten upwards. A water spring is located around this place and next to the cottage. It takes about 6 hours from the Gardaneh to Takht-e Fereydoun with an average pace.
Depending on the weather, sometimes we camp in a grass plain (4100 meters) instead of Takht-e Fereydoun, The grass plain is about half an hour before Takht base camp. It is more secluded and has water.
The summit and the ascent route are well spotted from Takht-e Fereydoun. The beaten path leads to the summit in almost a straight line. The climb on the 4th day takes about 6 hours with an average pace.
If you have traveled in the past with a high degree of difficulty and you are ready for the difficult conditions of climbing physically and mentally, you can go on trips with this degree of (heavy) difficulty, you must also have high physical fitness and your previous experience and background Approve the program. These trips are usually made at altitudes above 5,200 meters, long distances (8 to 12 hours of mountaineering and hiking per day), in unstable and changing climates, and rugged and rocky routes. In order to join us on these trips, you must know and have mountaineering equipment (as fallows), know use tents and camps at high altitudes, as well as field toilets. In the winters of Iran, most altitudes above 3500 meters have severe travel conditions.
Drive to Gardaneh Sar at an altitude of 2900 m, Arrive at Gardaneh Sar around 10 am. Leaving the bags to be transported by mules to the shelter of Takht-e Fereydoun and moving with light bags to the shelter at an altitude of 4400 meters with about 7 hours of trekking. Lunch in the middle of the track, setting up camp and overnight stay in camp
Moving to an altitude of 4600 meters for acclimatization, a little Rest and then return to camp and rest overnight to climb tomorrow
Departure to reach the summit at 5 o'clock in the morning with light backpacks, reach the peak at a height of 5610 meters at about 12 o'clock, return to the camp, have lunch in the middle of the road, arrive at the camp at about 18:00 o'clock, spend the night in the camp
Return to Gardaneh Sar at 7:00 am, arrival at about 11:00 am, pick the cars and return to Tehran